Poised high on an oversize velvet pillow and surrounded by lavishly embroidered blankets, a shawl-clad figure played the sitar as guests took their seats for Gianfranco Ferré's romp through Indian style.

Ferré worked plenty of his signature architectural flights of fancy into the show. Carefully constructed white coats and caftan jackets morphed into pegged trousers accented with hand-beaded silver strips. Elaborate organza creations featured drawstring furrowings, spiral encirclings, and textured appliqués. Metallic stitching turned up on leather skirts; silk patchwork pants were worn with embroidered twinsets; and long skirts and gowns were trimmed with dangling gold coins. Ferré's finale took the form of a glow-in-the-dark series of embroidered tangerine, lemon and orange dresses.

Fans of Ferré's extravagant aesthetic were not disappointed.