After his awkward debut during couture week, Welsh designer Julien Macdonald is still struggling to find his feet.

The house of Givenchy has always been known for its purity of line and simplicity of design—the polar opposite of Macdonald's heavy-handed use of ruching, cord inlays and cabled trims. While some pieces were finely made—notably a striking off-white poplin dancer skirt with layered crinolines and a pink marbleized dip-dye shirt—they got lost in an overabundance of decoration. Macdonald's high-waist pegged trousers, too sheer smocked dresses and fussy riding jackets all felt contrived.

Ultimately, this collection fell short of forging the new identity that Givenchy seeks.