Forget fitted silhouettes and uptight elegance. Tom Ford is ushering in a relaxed, laid-back feeling at Gucci.

Ford's new aesthetic marries hip-hop savoir faire—ultra-casual pants and asymmetrical-seam jackets were cut extra-wide—with Route 66 favorites like raw suede blazers, desert tops, and large coats that lace in the back. A stunning liquidy silk skirt was embellished with large floral cutouts; explorer shorts were worn with skimpy superfine knits. Ford showed gently gathered smocks and a double-layered black dress riveted with diminutive eyelet hooks—furthering the fresh spin on the romantic concepts he has explored of late.

While not everyone will embrace Ford's new supersized proportions, there is bound to be unanimous enthusiasm for his self-assured evening gowns: frothy Empire concoctions that fall to the floor, with draped backs that offer a voyeuristic peek at the rigorously laced corsets underneath.