More than a year after parting with its eponymous designer, Jil Sander is still struggling to find its footing as a world-class designer label.

Milan Vukmirovic, who was appointed creative director of the house less than a year ago, provided a tepid follow-up to his Fall debut. While there were several perfectly proper, wearable pieces—a great woven-leather coat, sharply cut blazers and a smart little caftan dress with flat sandals—the overall mood of the show was that of a nonevent. Vukmirovic's leather chemises and evening halter dresses, all in muted tones, failed to convey a strong sense of emotion.

Successful minimalist design requires an extremely precise sense of rigor, one that the Jil Sander design team must carefully pinpoint in order to maintain their status as a news-making brand.