Once again, John Galliano staged an extravagant ethnic mishmash.

An imposing checkered snakeskin zoot suit paved the way for Mexican-beaded shirts and suits, wide denim ensembles embroidered with cars, and a great knitted Andean coat. Galliano also showed some beautiful quieter pieces that were sometimes eclipsed by the flashier outfits: Standouts included a piped pale-blue blazer, side-ruched trousers and pretty tea dresses. (These could have done without their bungee-cord multiloop belts.)

Galliano is a fantastic storyteller who can meld diverse influences like few others. The insistence with which he drives this point home, however, is making it virtually impossible to distinguish his work at Dior from that of his signature line.