Katayone Adeli knows her customer well: hip, downtown girls who appreciate the trends but would never dream of looking like overeager fashion victims.

Adeli's collection was focused and to the point. Black fringe tanks worn with super-skinny eyelet jeans are sure to turn up on customers' most-wanted lists; ditto for the hand-tooled leather jackets and wide low-slung belts. Gunmetal silk jersey tops, frayed trousers and crepe dresses with sheer insets were all sexy and modern. When it looked like the collection could veer toward the predictable, Adeli wisely softened her street-tough silhouette with billowy, oversized tops, fringed cowgirl vests and casual batik skirts.

Like other designers, Adeli touched upon the Victorian and peasant aesthetics that Balenciaga and Saint Laurent have made so popular this fall, but she managed to move beyond obvious references to create an identity of her own.