Known for his love of simple luxury, Lawrence Steele turned up the volume this season with a collection that evoked the formfitting sexiness of old-school Hollywood.

Steele relied on severe pencil skirts, flared at the knee, and strapless gowns to create an ultra-curvaceous silhouette. Fifties-inspired dresses swished with every turn, while stretch tops anchored large floral-print skirts. For evening, Steele turned to leopard-spot beading; his tuxedo featured a blinding gold sequin vest in lieu of a conventional shirt. Steele indulged his sense of humor by embroidering a large, cursive "L" (last seen on '70s sitcom Laverne & Shirley) on loose cardigans that are meant to be worn backward.

Not everything worked, however. Several of Steele's ruched skirts and dresses looked simply old-fashioned, and there were times when the self-conscious glamour was laid on too thick. An occasional touch of restraint would have been welcome.