The things to watch at Markus Lupfer are his twists on leather and print. This German-born designer, who trained with Clements Ribeiro, has gathered a following among editors and shoppers alike for designs that are interesting, without ever making a girl look like a freak.

This show was high on femininity, color and detail. Lupfer opened with a flouncy skirt and sleeveless top decorated with vibrantly colored and patterned paperwork, like something derived from a South American carnival. It wasn't a costume parade, though: He followed up with photo-printed cashmeres and blouses, and intricately pieced superfine leather skirts and dresses cut and made so cleverly they almost looked like fabric. Some all-white looks—right down to belts and sneakers—hit a general Summer trend, while Aertex popped up again as a fabric of the moment.

When Spring comes around, Lupfer's collection will be a place to snap up a few frills and some nice color, plus—new to him this season—belts, bags and shoes.