Designer Vincent Dare, who until recently worked at Fendi, has taken over the reigns at Moschino, presenting one of the most spirited collections that label has seen in years.

Humor has always been a key ingredient at Moschino, and Dare made the most of it. Iconic '80s Chanel diva Inès de la Fressange opened the show, wearing a whimsical reinterpretation of the signature Chanel bouclé suit. The T-shirt underneath, meanwhile, was printed with a haughty put-down from Karl Lagerfeld: "Moschino n'est pas un style, c'est un pastiche!" As a riposte, Dare then introduced some great ruffled skirts, lightly beaded caftans, and a great horizontal-pleat dress that had gold coins nestled within the folds. Other urban suggestions included sharp pantsuits with ribbon detailing, a paillette-trimmed trench, and a crumpled tux that looked like it had been pulled prematurely from the dryer.

Playfully recalling Moschino's prominence in the '80s, Dare also sent ex-models Lynn Koester and Violeta Sanchez down the runway. They clearly enjoyed their comeback cameos.