Martine Sitbon draws on an eclectic mix of sources and has consistently explored both feminized menswear and a vintage, flea-market aesthetic.

It was hardly surprising, then, when antique-looking camisoles, washed denim skirts and distressed ruffle dresses all turned up on her runway, often coupled with mannish pinstripe blazers or vests. While several individual pieces worked well—notably the ecru coats, aged suede jackets and slim trousers—the overall effect of this collection was one of frenetic aimlessness. Sitbon's straightforward jabot dresses, Edwardian smocks and velvet-trimmed bits of flounce slipped too easily into the realm of kitsch. It's one thing to reference and update the past, but quite another to look like you're on your way to a costume party.