Matthew Williamson dubbed his concise, feel-good collection "Nu-topia," evoking the sort of acid-house resort—think Ibiza, Goa or Phuket—where girls (and boys this season) just want to have fun.

"Today you are panthers," read the backstage instructions board for the models, "sleek, strong, sexy." In fact, his girls were more fragile than predatory, in fluttering chiffon handkerchief point dresses and tops, ombré-printed with fluorescent rainbow colors. Skintight denim jeans (worn with Christian Louboutin's coin-fringed disco sandals) were patched with quirky assemblages of golden lace and neon-bright butterfly appliqués; even All Star baseball boots were customized with embroidered patchworks made from scraps of antique Maltese lace. (Backstage, the designer was wearing a length as a necktie.)

Fringed ponchos, micro-minis, patchwork elephant-leg jeans and shredded silky knits may not have been the freshest fashion news, but Williamson's elaborate detailing and neon palette (with white, gold and bleached blue) made them very much his own. "I thought it was fantastic—The End," squeaked It girl and Rolling Stones scion Leah Woods.