Although Olivier Theyskens has always been inspired by history, particularly the Victorian era, he uses old techniques to create clothes that are thoroughly, dramatically new.

Theysken's elaborate evening statements, in bold colors like electric green, orange crush and canary yellow, were feats of construction that incorporated imperiously ruffled, asymmetric skirts and cinched eyelet-hook corsets with a tiny shirt attached at the front. A brushed leather coat came with a bustled back, but did not look out of place among the more conventional trenches. In fact, Theyskens maintained a light, balanced mood throughout, showing sharp basics like light polo knits, a stunning gold silk skirt, and even a series of humble everyday cotton dresses.

This was a precisely conceived, consistent collection that will only further Theyskens' growing reputation.