Designer Julio Espada is now in his second season at Pucci, attempting to revive the fashion house's glory days and make it relevant for a new generation.

Capitalizing on Pucci's bold, instantly recognizable prints, Espada showed plenty of pretty, girly shorts, scarf sundresses and crisp cotton jackets. Chic, quirky details included cork buttons on poolside robes and mother-of-pearl embroidery on little halters, frothy evening gowns and knotted handbags. The outsized prima-donna sunglasses were also a hit.

The Pucci name, however, has always stood for practicality as much as high-impact glamour. And Espada's collection, though sweet and well-executed, lacked much of the easygoing simplicity of the label's classic jersey turtlenecks and zip-up jackets. Nostalgia alone will not propel this brand into the future.