A Frenchman working in London, Roland Mouret combines the romance of the couture tradition with the grit of his adopted city to make beautiful, edgy eveningwear.

Mouret kept his audience spellbound with a collection of black asymmetric dresses, falling from the body in rivulets of fabric, contrasted with shots of sharp, gentlemanly suiting. Upping the romantic quotient was the look of the girls, who wore no-makeup makeup with a slightly fevered sheen and ever-so-slightly tousled hair, as if caught at 3 a.m. at some fantastic ball. Luxury was also in plentiful supply: Mouret has the real thing, in the form of a new collection of rough diamond jewelry, made in association with mining company Oryx. The signature pins Mouret has always used to anchor fabric in a dress are now capped with a sugar-cube-size chunk of raw ice, while pendants and wisps of silver bracelets swing with very serious rocks. Show-stoppers? A dusty pink, huge-sleeved georgette blouse tethered to the torso with a massive wooden bead necklace; a delicate layered sheath of chiffon in cutout black flowers; and a white corseted top with a 3-D, raw-edged bouquet of fabric flowering at one shoulder.

If there are to be occasions in the future, these are the kind of clothes clued-up women will dream of wearing to them.