Russell Sage
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 21, 2001
By Sarah Mower
Russell Sage puts his collections together by reworking antique pieces to incorporate symbolic commentaries. This one started with a tableau of four models in short-sleeve cotton dresses with animal skins draped over them. (The show notes pointed out that the zebras and tigers on display had been shot in the 1880s and '90s.) These were followed by more dresses onto which oil paintings of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and Julien Macdonald had been sewn. Today's big-game trophies are fashion labels—geddit?Sage's quip didn't exactly rock the aisles, but his show had plenty of other treasures worth looking at—all made from a haul of Victorian patchwork, hunting jackets, embroidered Chinese silk and vintage nightshirts. Underneath the asymmetrical complexities, the color and shape of the dresses—often done with intricate pleating and a romantic full-skirted silhouette—was beautiful. Standouts were the designer's neat, short evening jackets, especially one in antique damask with a black organza ruffle bursting from a lapel. It's a compliment to Sage that, despite the heritage fabrics, this looks like a believable modern collection rather than a costume show.
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Spring 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi An American View Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Arkadius -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally BCBG Max Azria Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Cerruti Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cynthia Rowley -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Halston Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hugo Boss -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jasper Conran Jean Paul Gaultier Jill Stuart Jil Sander Joe Casely-Hayford John Galliano Julien Macdonald -
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Katayone Adeli -
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Lawrence Steele Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Olivier Theyskens Oscar de la Renta -
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Philosophy Prada -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Tomas Maier -
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Ungaro Couture -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Wink -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent
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