Sophia Kokosalaki knows exactly who she is and what she is about. An Athenian working in London, it has taken her just a few seasons to develop a consistently strong, feminine aesthetic.

Kokosalaki turned to her Mediterranean roots for the first time this Summer in a collection she described as "Minoan Pagan"—a reference to the ancient Cretan civilization of King Minos. Specific influences were the terra cotta, tan and creamy colors of Cretan wall-painting and ceramics, and the cheesecloth and macramé of Greek peasant crafts. These were incorporated into her already distinctive way with leather (delicately twisted and embroidered bustiers and seamed jackets) and draped jersey (dresses with cobwebby inserts at the front, or slung about with dangly macramé belts).

Another new element was intricate pleating, which looked great on the bodice of the best piece in the collection: a high-waisted cheesecloth peasant dress with a keyhole opening, piped in cream.