Viktor & Rolf

PARIS, October 6, 2001
By Armand Limnander
How could Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf possibly follow their triumphant, all-black fall exploration of volumes and silhouettes? How else but with an effervescent, all-white spring exploration of… volumes and silhouettes.

Huge silver organ pipes provided a stunning backdrop for prim Balenciaga-inspired 1940's boxy jackets with oversize buttons, lace dresses with built-in belts, and bow-covered suits. The tuxedo—a mandatory piece in every Viktor & Rolf collection—came in white and silver brocade, with a tidal wave of ruffles crashing forth from within its lapels. A rope-piped pantsuit, several heart-printed trousers and plenty of sheer shirts looked like commercial hits, but the truly outstanding items were the immense, double-and-triple-waist pleated skirts and massively oversized shirts and jackets. These sculptural masterpieces could easily pass as extravagant bridal dresses—not to mention being mistaken for particularly sumptuous wedding cakes.

"The collection is about love and goodness and being positive—that's all we can really say about it," said Rolf after the show. "For us, the medium is the message."

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