A sort of Brazilian Karl Lagerfeld, Alexandre Herchcovitch is a fashion superstar in his country of origin, where the prolific designer produces no fewer than four collections per season—his own signature label (which he also now shows in Paris), two jeanswear lines and a collection for the CORI company.

Herchcovitch is a consummate showman, and his presentations sometimes compete with the clothes for attention. For Spring, however, he was right on target, projecting colorful bull's-eyes onto the floor, which he intended to evoke "the little waves produced when you drop a stone into a lake." The designer's typically colorful collection incorporated a range of current trends, from ruffles and layering through beach and surf references (tie-dyes and bikinis). By far the most effective element, though, was Herchcovitch's take on active sportswear—especially his colorful athletic jackets and a lovely red drop-waisted dress of georgette silk with racing stripes. (The stripes, made of rainbow zippers developed exclusively for the designer by YKK, appeared throughout the show.)

Herchcovitch's easy command of color and cultures, and his irrepressible energy, are sure signs that his little waves will eventually break on far larger shores.