If fashion designers were each assigned a signature car, Costume National’s Ennio Capasa would undoubtedly end up with a sleek, dark Ferrari. Capasa strips trends down to their essential elements without taking away the slick sex appeal, and the result for spring was a collection with both visual and commercial clout.

The predominantly black palette was a bit heavy for a spring show, although it was leavened with white, gray, and occasional bits of apricot and mauve or beading and embroidery. Capasa kept it skinny (tight pants, slim skirts), mini (the briefest dresses, skirts and shorts) and bare (lots of spaghetti straps and sheer chiffon, including some tops worn over puzzling strappy bondage pieces reminiscent of Helmut Lang). It wasn't a groundbreaking show, but there was plenty to appeal to that trend-hungry customer who wants her clothes to look as cutting edge as she is.