After several seasons spent voyaging inward, Donna Karan is clearly in the mood to go out and get down. Her New Age woman has left the ashram and is now on the hunt for a cold beer and some hot jazz.

Karan opened with a series of very businesslike jackets and coats whose built-up shoulders, brass buttons and stitching details recalled the exaggerated power-woman suits of the ’40s. But she quickly softened the mood with pretty jersey wrap dresses bound with generous sashes and knee-length skirts that either hugged the body or swirled out in circles. While most of the collection stuck to black, cream, navy and nude, Karan threw in some bold prints and bright colors—she even called one her "celebration print"—to spice things up. Her eyelet pieces, in poppy-red or blue on a cream background, were perfect for spring.

Karan's customer is bound to be tired after a day in the boardroom and a night at the club, but this is not a woman who wears sweats around the house. She'll wrap herself up in the sweeping black-and-white satin kimono that the designer used to close the show, before she drifts off to dream of the next day’s festivities