Donna Karan's DKNY shows are like flash dispatches from the trend trenches. Flippy pleated minis! Retro-tinged dresses! Cargo capri pants! Short shorts and pencil skirts! Mixed and matched by Karan's inimitable hand, they zing by in her high-energy shows.

Karan laid out the basic components of her spring vision with her opening group, done in giddy bubblegum pink: a balmacaan raincoat over a polka-dot top; a soft sweater worn with a full skirt; and a lightweight jacket worn over short shorts. From there, she added in a few retro-spirited dresses, like a loose-cut navy polka-dot chiffon shift worn over cropped trousers, in the style of the new mod girls. Skirts are Karan’s new favorite item, and she showed plenty: knee-length pleated versions, mood-altering minis with pep to spare, slim pencils that sat low on the hip. And since jackets are always important to Karan's stylish working customer, she threw in a few variations on that theme: curvy fitted styles, boxy denim versions and cropped bombers.