Emma Cook’s Spring collection, her first official solo catwalk show, played like the ’60s as seen by a child of the ’80s. The 26-year-old designed her presentation around an imaginary woman named Suzistyrene, a character she dreamed up after watching Barbarella and doing some thinking about ’80s sportswear. Suzi, it turns out, has charm and individual style to spare.

Cook worked ’60s themes—clear plastic inserts in shift dresses, shiny PVC and patchwork suede—alongside ’80s elements like jersey with shoulder cutouts, and straps and buckles reminiscent of Duran Duran. PVC raincoats with Liberty-style prints and suede overalls and dresses, meanwhile, had more than a whiff of Mary Quant and Jean Muir about them. Cook also referenced Paco Rabanne, via overdresses and neck pieces made of linked plastic circles and butterflies, but without getting heavy-handed or pretentious. All of which made for a lighthearted debut and a welcome breath of fresh air.