For Givenchy, Julien Macdonald surfed several of the trend waves that are crashing on the fashion beach for summer. That meant Mediterranean-style versions of the season's ultra-short, sporty and combat-inspired looks, and hot doses of color.

Ignoring the house's former reputation for elegant, ladylike suits, Macdonald cut a white piqué jacket with matching micro shorts and paired a classic black jacket with sheer mesh trousers. His focus then turned mostly on resort clothes aimed at those who vacation in places like Saint-Tropez—and whose idea of fashion is to accessorize their hot-pink swimwear with a see-through sport jacket. Rounding out the casually dressy options were shredded lavender denims, and suede jackets and jeans done in vivid jungle-pattern patchwork. For evening, Macdonald channeled the current feeling for goddessy dresses and prints. His best: a black plissé-silk dress with a black empire waistband.