October 03, 2002 Paris
For spring, the designer revisited his obsession with construction and deconstruction; the clothes were shredded and cut away to expose layers of fabric and outline zones of flesh. Ironically, though, Chalayan is at his best when he veers away from academic complexity and his design emerges as recognizable garments and trends. The pieces he executed in drapey blackthe shirt with wide armholes paired with a wrapped-waist skirt and the halter vest over pantswere beautifully cut and ready to be worn anywhere. There were exquisite layers of diaphanous pleats in a beige dress and fluted tunic, and there were a few pieces in lingerie pink and dusty greens that related to current fashion. As to what it all "meant"that's a mystery likely to remain locked up in Chalayan's head.