When Jil Sander walked away from the house that bears her name, its experimental, intellectual ethos went with her, ending a chapter in fashion history. Now, with a design team headed by former retailer Milan Vukmirovic, the line’s emphasis is making commercially viable sportswear.

Spring’s direction is literally just that: a collection based on sporty clothing, a theme that emerged on London’s runways two weeks ago. Opening the show was a big, black, zippered cotton parka over shorts, paired with a shoe that is a cross between a high pump and a thong. The zipper motif was further explored in a punkish short dress and a sleeveless blouson, and eventually evolved into a tank top constructed of woven zips and a short dress made from a ballooning cascade of fasteners.

A workout theme took over as Vukmirovic converted track pants, T-shirts and anoraks into luxury pieces using perforated leather, sheer fabrics and mesh. It all culminated in a gold bugle-beaded top ready for a sprint round the summer party circuit.