The last couple years have been a roller-coaster ride for Miguel Adrover. The one-time media darling known for transforming humble materials into tailored tours de force became the black sheep of the industry after back-to-back seasons of Egyptian-inspired fashions that fell flat at retail. So his spring show was a make-or-break event—and Adrover more than rose to the occasion.

Titled “Citizen of the World,” the collection was inspired by the New York immigrant experience. But from look one (Omahyra wearing striped trousers and a fringed “ghetto” tank top made of do-rags), it was clear that the clothes transcended the labels (“banker,” “hasidim,” “traveler”) and themes (a tarmac-styled runway) imposed on them. The strongest looks, like a simply elegant, extra-large T-shirt dress, were gimmick-free, while Adrover’s sharkskin suits and “New Yorker” blazer were crowd-pleasing exercises in precision tailoring. For evening, the designer seemed to channel Adrian, sending out a Jean Harlow–worthy silk satin dress and a high-wattage, Swarovski-beaded gown miraculously pieced together from myriad puzzle-shaped pieces.

All this was presented to a soundtrack that morphed from takeoffs and landings to a steady heartbeat. An apt metaphor for a career that now looks to be on a straight—and resolutely individual—track.