MaxMara

MILAN, September 28, 2002
By Sarah Mower
What does a label known worldwide for beautiful winter coats do when the weather turns warmer? Hope for rain, of course. MaxMara based its spring collection on raincoats, making them part of a sexy-chic wardrobe that can take its following of working women through good and bad weather alike.

The show opened with a short, belted olive patent version, worn with gladiator sandals buckled around the shins. The slick mac also turned up in firefighter yellow, then became the basis of a skirt suit, in both beige and bright orange. Life isn’t all 9 to 5, though. MaxMara’s designers applied themselves to beach- and eveningwear as well. There were breezy linen-voile shirt dresses—ruched in back to give a sense of feminine form—shown over swimwear.

When it came to nightfall, the collection picked up on the ’60s trend that is bubbling all over Milan. Short, drapey jersey dresses came anchored to the body with silver-metal neck pieces straight out of the Courrèges space-age period. If a more down-to-earth dinner date is on the agenda, there was an oyster satin suit that walked the line between sensible propriety and on-trend glamour.

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