Markus Lupfer doesn’t usually make overtly sexy clothes. When he arrived on the London scene in the late ’90s, his style was all about revisiting ladylike classics with an avant-garde sensibility. But things have moved on, and Lupfer has now revved up his ideas to suit a leggy London girl who likes to go out. He’s also caught on to several of the trends emerging on the city’s runways: short jersey dresses, bright colors, all-in-ones and raunchy ’80s-flavored sport clothes.

Lupfer updated winter combat pants, in white cotton, by simplifying them—cropping them at the knee and putting them with high heels and a drapey cream lace tank. His all-in-ones came as either loose, faded dungarees or fitted overalls that had nothing to do with auto mechanics. His dresses, in single shots of orange jersey or mixed-print chiffon, came short and bloused up at the waist, to give a flippy volume to the skirt. Throughout the collection, Lupfer found fresh uses for his well-known skills with print and leather. There were dotty, orange-and-white plunging swimsuits, bold neon-pink zigzags and punched-out summer leathers made into mini trapeze dresses and skirts. Looks like he’s left his artsy librarian far behind.