Maurizio Pecoraro has a proven talent for delving into the romantic and folkloric, using a good deal of delicate handcraft to produce pretty, vintagey effects. But now that the peasant hordes are fast disappearing over the fashion horizon, he’s turned to a new source of inspiration: the op art ’60s.

The opening shots were all knitwear, done in bright, sporty stripes and patterns and shown with fluorescent makeup. Then came shifts, spangled with circles of sequin and paired with silver go-go boots, followed by Bridget Riley–inspired optical prints and details like appliqużd plastic rings. Pecoraro isn’t exactly going out on a limb, since many designers are plumbing the geometrics and plastics of the early ’60s for ideas. But it is a tough one to pull off with conviction, and the designer’s collection looked better when he reverted to the softer femininity of the silver sequin, applied to floppy chiffons, which came out at the end of his show.