Rock ’n’ roll softened by English quirkiness. That’s the essence of Paul Smith’s spring collection. Showing to a soundtrack of Stones and Rod Stewart oldies, the designer playfully rearranged an anthology of rock-chick classics, from a Keith Richards-esque black topcoat to leather jeans, micro shorts and vests to pointy, pink vintage bras and hoodies, strung about with punky chains.

Smith’s not really a man for the tough girls, though, and his cheeky sense of humor undercut the show’s harder edge. Never able to resist putting in a pun somewhere, he referenced his menswear background by sewing together ties to form skirts. He left his boyish tailoring raw at the edges and turned men’s formal white piqué dress shirts, complete with undone dickey bows, into dresses. When he finally indulged his nostalgic leanings by sending out tiny-rosebud and tablecloth prints, the vibe had reverted from a backstage Jack Daniels binge for the groupies to a 1950s English tea party on a summer afternoon. Isn’t Sir Paul nice?