Roland Mouret’s Spring collection was a distinct change in mood from the retro romanticism of his fall show. Mouret said his inspiration was “key British movements—the ’50s, mods and punks,” and the disheveled models had a certain morning-after air about them. Being French, though, Mouret’s version of grunge is essentially feminine, rather than down and dirty.

There were a few bondage straps and D-rings sprinkled throughout the collection, along with motorcycle and blouson jackets, and a few low-riding circle skirts. Mouret also grabbed onto a look that’s been a starting point for many of the London collections: cropped combat pants worn with heels and tank tops so shredded they barely constitute garments at all.

His strongest offerings were sexy minis with flirty box pleats, a skinny, elongated black blouson over lean pants, and fluid evening silhouettes with corseted strapless tops. Mouret is expanding into other frontiers, as well: a new jewelry line features uncut diamonds—one of which was enticingly implanted in a model’s navel.