Can a lady engage in combat? Can she join up with the sports aficionados? Yes, if she's in the hands of Valentino Garavani. The Roman maestro used a Warhol camouflage print in army greens and browns for a sophisticated wardrobe of snappy short linen military jackets and coats and khaki knit jogging pants with high sandals.

A lot of designers are in the military/sports zone this season, but the ladies of the Valentino corps are hardly a casual bunch. Their day uniform can consist of an olive jacket inset with brass rings, with the belt threaded through and tied in a knot, or brown leather patterned with mother-of-pearl, or as a bronze lamé safari jacket, all just so.

For the evening review, it gets even better. Valentino's communiqués from his couture collection show up as delicate metallic-embroidered chiffons made into fragile capes, cardigans or dresses. And for the grand occasion, there's a full battalion of the designer's fabulous signature chiffon gowns.