London is not the first city you think of for sexy power dressing. Edginess yes. Shock value often. But it’s a rare British designer who keeps an appreciation of the female form at the forefront of his work. In his fourth season, Warren Noronha has emerged as just such a figure, emphasizing sexiness without ever crossing over into trashiness.

Noronha knows his way around a curve-enhancing silhouette, scooping out a neckline in a tailored wool dress or fusing a shirt to a low-cut pair of pants in a way that traces every contour. Skinny cropped pants or hip-hugging jeans look good with a strict jacket that melts into an asymmetrical peplum with a waterfall flounce.

What Noronha is best at, though, is draping jersey. As they stalked the mirrored runway, his models looked—and clearly felt—drop-dead fabulous in body-loving dresses and tops, which came in either black or an abstract print. Ditching the unnecessary theatrics of past seasons, Noronha gave his audience an unobscured view of a talent that is stepping up to the next level.