A.F. Vandevorst
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 7, 2003
By Rebecca Lowthorpe
"We used paper to research new shapes," said An Vandevorst backstage after the Spring 2004 presentation. "But we liked the effect so much we decided to use it in the show," added her husband and design partner Filip Arickx. And use it they did, opening with a simple brown paper mac followed by a series of increasingly complex concoctions in the same "fabric": a jacket whose sleeves were hoisted up with leather straps, a skirt with layers of jigsaw-puzzle pleats. The experiment was then echoed in more-accessible white cotton.Super-luxurious materials may not be A.F. Vandevorst’s thing, but clever construction certainly isand that needn’t mean stiff and complicated. Witness a pristine white cotton shirtdress, or a pair of super-skinny, zippered pants in the palest suede, or a simple chocolate canvas trench. A chiffon dress printed with plumes was, quite literally, as light as a feather; a pea-green jersey dress was sliced down the back to reveal a flash of bare spine. Even their print, in the form of an arty, abstract paisley lookedheaven forbid!almost chic.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Ys Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo




















