"For me, spring/summer is always about happy, merry clothes," said Andrew Gn, practically an understatement given the powerful, punchy prints—polka dots and blossoms galore—that bloomed large throughout his collection.

Out trooped his ladies, à la Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour—all shades and chignons, patent heels and lashings of scarlet lipstick—to the sound of Annie Lennox belting out: "I was born an original sinner." Things started out prim with polite cotton coat-dresses, their seams traced with ribbon, then got naughtier thanks to pleated minidresses in red, lilac, sunflower yellow, and coral. But Gn really hit his stride with outfits that combined his exceptional sense of print, color, and decoration. A red polka-dot shirt, say, was worn with a circle skirt (fast becoming the piece of the season) boasting great bunches of hydrangeas; there were silk jackets bursting with roses, ruffled shirts dappled with daisies, and jackets that buttoned with fluttering poppies.

Spectacular crystal and glass creations by famed costume jeweler Robert Goossens contributed to the already vibrant mix: glossy belts, dramatic bracelets, and necklaces holding up pretty halterneck dresses. Wear Gn to a summer garden party? Absolutely—if you want to see heads swivel in your direction.