Anne Klein
NEW YORK, September 16, 2003
By Janet Ozzard
Seismic shifts seem to be a trend this season, and it’s not a hemline movement. Anne Klein, in the process of changing ownership, named a new designer after Charles Nolan announced he was leaving to campaign for Democratic presidential candidate Governor Howard Dean. His replacement, Michael Smaldone, debuted with a spring collection that added a bit of edge to his predecessor’s aesthetic, without veering off wildly in a new direction.Smaldone’s theme was “urban nymph,” and he set the mood by paving his runway with wood chips (not the best surface for high heels, as the models soon discovered). Working with a limited palette—white, yellow, black, and khaki, with a few plum-toned accents—he kept silhouettes simple, with pencil skirts, tailored jackets cropped above the wrist, and full-cut white shirts tucked into slim pants or shorts.
The designer attached a high leather waistband to a few pants and skirts, used hook and eyes up the back of a skirt, and lavished silver beading in unexpected places—on a khaki tunic over cropped pants, and on an A-line skirt paired with a yellow striped shirt. While he may have chosen classic lines, clearly he likes a vivid detail.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K & Kerrigan Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero Maria Cornejo
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