Capucci
MILAN, October 2, 2003
By Sarah Mower
Has quirkiness and nonconformity disappeared entirely from the fashion system? Not when you’re looking at Italy’s multinational Capucci project, for which Bernhard Willhelm (German-born, Antwerp-trained, Paris-dwelling) oversees ready-to-wear, Sybilla (Spanish) designs the once-a-year evening collection, and Franca Maria Carraro (Italian) does the shoes. For spring, Willhelm had fun with the Roman founder’s extraordinary way with volumes. “I was playing with the idea of boxes last season,” he said. “This is sort of a continuation of that, but now I’ve added circles.” Lines of thick, wavy cord stitched onto the hems of short dresses were another, less conceptual borrowing from the archive.The cutely eccentric flat shoes and a bright emerald plissé dress, whose ballooning sleeves were suspended from shoulder straps, made for the presentation’s best moments. Willhelm’s personal skew toward the eighties still comes through in an insistence on stripes and leaf-green shades. For curiosity value alone, the Capucci project is a line worth knowing about, but in actual fashion practice, these are strictly clothes for girls who will make their artsy way through the season, avoiding anything so obvious as a trend.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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