Suede pants laminated to the body. Leather jackets that fit like a glove. Hemlines that leave little, if anything, to the imagination. If this is what turns you on, then Costume National designer Ennio Capasa is your man.

The collection wasn't all about steam, though. It takes a confident hand to stitch a web of seams into a pair of skintight blush-pink suede pants without making them look either clumsy or banal. And there was plenty of skill evident in skinny hand-brushed leather jackets and cotton macs, with sheer side panels, that emphasized the designer's beloved hourglass silhouette. Or wispy chiffon tops whose butterfly-shaped sleeves fluttered as the models glided by.

Capasa also served up some surprises with color: Combinations like lemon and powder pink (!), mint and mauve (see the suede accessories), and lilac and pale blue suffused the raunchier pieces with a fresh, upbeat spirit. Which is not to say there wasn't plenty of his trademark noir, spun into curvilinear satin micro dresses, or long evening gowns in—what else?—transparent chiffon. This is fashion that favors the brave.