Emma Cook
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 22, 2003
By Sarah Mower
Emma Cook, a young London designer, likes to do a lot of research for her seasonal theses; but as she progresses from a sophomore to a junior she’s learning not to lay her themes on too thick. She described her Spring 2004 presentation as inspired by “old-fashioned ideas about futurism, Rodchenko, the constructivists, and 1920’s statues of ladies.”What it meant was that Cook had worked machine-age cog motifs and photoprints of butterflies and flowers into flat cutouts that formed straps on dresses, neckpieces, and belts. Other details, like geometric, Deco-inspired leather inserts, also picked up on the Jazz-Age references that are currently preoccupying twenty-something designers the world over. Cook was aiming for a harder edge than usual, via slick black chintz coatdresses and some ultra-cropped boleros, but these served chiefly as garnish for the things she’s happiest doodling every season: little jersey dresses with a certain nonintellectual innocence about them.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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