Haider Ackermann
PARIS, October 7, 2003
By Rebecca Lowthorpe
The season is shaping up to be a pretty one, full of floaty dresses, fizzy prints, and eye-popping color. But trust a Belgian—or, in this case, a Belgian-trained, Colombian-born Frenchman—to deliver a more austere approach to spring/summer.Despite the stark palette of petrol blue, graphite, black, and white, Haider Ackermann’s collection was both light and desirable. His inspiration? "The street," he said simply. "And elegance." For the former, read sporty perforated synthetics cut into skinny racer-back vests and harem pants. And for the latter? That would be any one of his dresses—an effortless, elongated blue sweater, say, or a sinuous gray jersey wrap-over style.
Although Ackermann did veer down a few mean streets with his trickier pieces—softly strapped bondage trousers, tough black leather shorts, and a number of raw-hemmed pencil skirts—he never hit a dead end in a collection that was cool and surprisingly graceful, albeit with a dark soul.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A
A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
F
Fendi FrostFrench -
G
Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
L
Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
U
Undercover -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
Y
Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
