Jill Stuart

NEW YORK, September 15, 2003
By Laird Borrelli
Since half of Jill Stuart’s SoHo shop is dedicated to the designer’s vintage finds, it's no surprise that many intricate details typical of these pieces should find their way into her spring collection. This season Stuart traveled back in time from her fall show, a celebration of sixties style, to the twenties and thirties, with a strong focus on evening wear. Results varied from an overly derivative silver-beaded flapper dress to a scrumptious gown constructed from pink petals that, though vintage-inspired, looked perfect for right now.

For day Stuart showed smart trenches, cut above the knee, in black and the peachy pink that is becoming a touchstone of the season, as well as tightly pleated minis in black and a red-and-blue floral that bloomed here and there throughout the show. Ribbons, ruching, and lace insets were among the many lingerie details that updated sporty pieces like bra tops, a pink sweatshirt/bed jacket (tied asymmetrically with a blue grosgrain ribbon), and the shrunken blue blazers that Stuart paired with shorts. For those in the swim, there were a variety of Hollywood-glamorous bathing suits with ruching, bows, and back zips that would look as good on the silver screen as they will poolside at the Chateau Marmont.

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