Kim Jones
LONDON, September 23, 2003
By Sarah Mower
The whirlwind of London’s designer hype traditionally starts in grungy East End underground clubs, the kind that get going way after dark and where only the young and brave dare venture. This season, Kim Jones was the name being tossed around by the seasonal cyclone. A menswear designer, it was rumored he had something new to say for women.New or not, at least he has a fresh reference point: for his first women’s collection, Jones incorporated aspects of nineties youth culture on top of the 1980’s references already in heavy circulation. “Rave festivals—that was when I first started going out,” he said, to explain the striped Peruvian fabrics that were spliced into a fifteen-look collection of cropped jackets, colorful curvy dresses, and ruched leggings that also invoked that other totemic figure of the season, Azzedine Alaïa.
Although all the women’s pieces will be sold under the Kim Jones label, the collaborative-minded Jones didn’t actually design the collection; that was done, quite openly, by his pal Marios Schwab, a recent Central Saint Martins graduate. Jones, meanwhile, concentrated on menswear ideas like making pants out of patched-together handkerchiefs. The whole endeavor has the authentic air of the amateur start-up that doesn’t quite make sense or play by the rules. Partly annoying, partly intriguing; but then again, definitely on the radar for next season.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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