Krizia
MILAN, October 2, 2003
By Sarah Mower
Curiosity over the lines of succession at well-established houses is becoming one of fashion’s favorite preoccupations. What happens when a designer reaches a point in life where stepping back seems only natural? And how can a label be injected with new energy, without losing its singularity? Mariuccia Mandelli, who is still very much hands-on in her own design room, has called in the London designer Hamish Morrow to work through those questions over the last two seasons at Krizia, and she clearly has confidence in his talent; at the end of her Spring 2004 show, she brought him out in front of the audience to take a joint bow.Leafing through the results of their collaboration backstage, Mandelli pointed out the "sport chic" elements that made it into the collection. Morrow, who has his own fledgling line back home in London, is a modernist with an interest in technical fabrics, and his hand was evident in details like leather parachute harnesses on dresses and swimwear. His eye for bright, slightly jarring color combinations showed up, too, in tonal placings of shades of green, orange, and yellow. Mandelli also drew attention to the high-tech materials that can only be produced in Italy—modern luxe inventions like steel gauze (made into light, crinkly trenches and jackets) and washable leather, which Morrow used for biker pants. White leather zippered bodices and body-hugging dresses, meanwhile, projected a souped-up sexiness rather than Morrow’s instinctive taste for abstraction. Only time will tell whether this relationship will ensure a sound future direction for the house. But it’s certainly an interesting start.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
