Lagerfeld Gallery
PARIS, October 9, 2003
By Rebecca Lowthorpe
"Graphic effects!" exclaimed the designer backstage before he was swamped by well-wishers. Right. And there were plenty of them in his Spring collection, from the waspish silhouettes to the laser-sharp pleated dresses and bold prints.Lagerfeld flitted from one theme to the next in his quest for a striking statement. Tough-shouldered jackets and stiff little skirts in croc-stamped leather were swiftly replaced by a fleet of sinuous, slithering sheath dressessome with Grecian folds, others that clasped at the shoulder with a silver buckle. Next up, a couple of bikini-clad beach babes, whose jersey robes fell to the floor at the pull of a strap. Then came the faded denim: a natty cropped jacket here, a curvy pinafore there. These were hotly pursued by dainty chiffon dressesin chocolate, black, or coralgiven a graphic twist with shoulder straps and waistbands cut from sparkling shagreen.
Of course, the proceedings wouldn't be complete without the designer's obligatory strict black suits, worn with crisp white shirts, high starched collars, thin black neckties, and super-svelte skirts of both the mini and pencil persuasion. Nor would the show be the same without one of Lagerfeld's witty, self-mocking edicts: T-shirts, as slender as the designer himself, were branded with the message "4 Slim People." As if there was any doubt.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A
A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
F
Fendi FrostFrench -
G
Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
L
Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
S
Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
U
Undercover -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
Y
Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Ys Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo











