Luella
NEW YORK, September 14, 2003
By Janet Ozzard
London-based Luella Bartley designed her collection this past summer as Europe was enduring its vicious heat wave and she was coming to the end of her pregnancy. So it’s no surprise that her spring line was full of breezy pieces meant to float off the body while keeping spirits from wilting.The title of the collection was “a tribe called Luella,” a group which clearly shares some anthropological traits with the clan of Bananarama: There were outsized overalls worn over tiny tops; loose, lightweight cotton and silk blouses; dresses wrapped with ropy braided belts; and generously cut menswear pieces, like a giant V-neck sweater worn as a mini or a billowing blue cotton shirt with soft drawstring trousers. And though there were some tweeds worked into the mix, they steered clear of serious; Luella’s tiny minis and flaring boleros piped in Day-Glo are in no danger of being mistaken for Chanel (although her increasingly great handbags could start their own cult).
For decoration, Bartley strung her models in fetishes of all kinds: cheery leather skulls, crossbones, smiley faces, and hearts, as well as a few tiny Net MD Walkmans supplied by her corporate sponsor, Sony. If 2004 brings another cruel, cruel summer, at least the Bartley tribe will be dressed for it.
see all designers ›

Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
-
A
A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
F
Fendi FrostFrench -
G
Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
L
Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
S
Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
U
Undercover -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
Y
Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Ys Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo

















