Martine Sitbon
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 11, 2003
By Rebecca Lowthorpe
"I wanted to take couture elements, like bows and flowers, but do them in a spontaneous, modern, comfortable way," explained Martine Sitbon. Hardly the torturously intellectual talk of a respected French modernist, but then this is Paris, Spring 2004, and designers everywhere are lightening up their acts.Sitbon was no exception. For a section of clothes made from parachute silk, she raided the colors from the makeup counter—powdery blush, baby blue, a highlight of lime, lipstick magenta. But while the sweatshirts, ruched-sleeved parkas, and ice-skating skirts looked pretty, easy, and undemanding, some of the repetitive dresses did not: Loose cummerbunds bulked up the hips and large silk flowers were plonked on thighs, a little too spontaneously. Will the Sitbon customer really want to wear dresses so sugary sweet they resembled upside-down tulips? Will even her die-hard fans snap up the aprons covered in chiffon blooms?
Fear not, all you Sitbon lovers. Her alternative—a play on masculine/feminine tailoring—gave the collection balance and rescued it from the saccharine realms of cotton-candy couture. Crisp white frock coats, backless waistcoats, and wide cream trousers looked smart, imaginative, and sexy, as did the last few slithery black satin sheaths with twisted velvet straps—just the sort of strong signature pieces that her customers know and love.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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