Womenswear has been creeping gradually into Rachel Comey's growing men’s line, finally reaching a critical mass for Spring 2004. In keeping with her now-dual focus, Comey (who also designs costumes for New York's punk cabaret Gogol Bordello) opted for a straightforward runway show instead of her usual theatrical installation. Held in the outside promenade of New York’s Flatotel, it still had the dramatic flair that Comey’s enthusiastic young following has come to expect.

The first women's exit was a little black jersey dress, constructed in layers, with crisscross ties and finished at the end with silver caps. Cut close on top, it was loose and forgiving at the bottom. Another black dress of tiered, crinkled chiffon, with a pencil-sketch print done for Comey by Clay Weiner, exemplified the "decorative but not too flashy" feeling she was aiming for. Most of the pieces she showed were designed, Comey said, as being "airy, light, and daytime," which translated into an abundance of smart separates: tank tops worn under printed chiffon tops; a pencil skirt worn with a swingy, sharp-shouldered jacket; reversible blousons and shorts; and a lilac jacket with rip-stop nylon detailing borrowed from her sports-themed menswear. The overall mood was pure summer, and the collection full of confident, easy clothes for cool customers with discerning eyes.