Sebastian Pons
NEW YORK, September 19, 2003
By Laird Borrelli
Sometimes you can go home again. Sebastian Pons was born in Majorca, graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, spent some time working with Alexander McQueen, and then moved to New York to join Miguel Adrover’s design team. Yet it was only after Pons returned to his native island that he debuted his first collection here, following an intensive period of research about the early history of fashion. If your idea of early means vintage, think again; his collection, called Itaca, was a sartorial excursion through the ancient civilizations of Greece, Rome, and Southeast Asia, with some contemporary Spanish spice sprinkled throughout.Opening in ancient mode, Pons showed a one-shouldered toga in a natural tint, followed closely by another in Roman purple. He used linen, a fabric with an appropriately venerable past, for a series of marvelous dresses: one with simple decorative stitching, like a converted table cloth; another embroidered in blue; yet another painted by hand with a pomegranate motif. Some of the most chic pieces in the collection were the suits—a kind of campesino take on Chanel, with drop-waisted skirts and embroidered cardigan jackets that laced up the front and at the wrist. The concept was repeated to more bohemian effect with rustic Ikat prints and added fringes.
As the show progressed the clothes became more decorative, moving through knits in Arabian-inspired patterns and hues to end in a souk-like riot of color: pink and green chiffons stitched with semi-precious stones; a chemise entirely embroidered in colored threads and pieces of mirror; and simple dresses with floral prints and pretty ribbon trims. Overall, Pons achieved an impressive balance between the classic and the decorative, launching his fashion caravan on what looks set to be a thrilling journey.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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