Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 6, 2003
By Sarah Mower
Jun Takahashi showed his collection on pairs of identical twins: How sweet! Each sister act came out with matching hairdos and wearing different versions of the same outfitone playing it straight, the other a visual meltdown of the look, like a reflection in a fairground mirror. Takahashi worked his idea across a range of fashion standards, like sailor tees and khakis, white shirts and black pants, French trenches with Kelly bags, and American blue jeans and baseball shirts.Shows like these are what fashion's cool-seekers come to Paris to see: ideas that make you smile, but also engage the brain. For all its surface innocence and playfulness, the Undercover collection always has, as its name suggests, a subtext. This season, the pacifist Takahashi weighed in on the origins of current world conflicts. On the soundtrack, John Lennon and the Plastic Ono Band raged against organized religion ("I don’t believe in Jesus...I don’t believe in Buddha") while the twins massed together for a finale wearing T-shirts reading, "Violence invites violence," "Silly to kill," and "Who wants to be a soldier."
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi FrostFrench -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Ys Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo




















