Pretty may be the trend for spring, but it’s nothing new for Vera Wang; she’s made a career of unfussy elegance. Her latest collection, full of lovely, understated separates and drop-dead gowns that are red-carpet ready, showcased her undeniable skill.

She touched on the season’s mood with stunning jersey goddess gowns in rich green and brilliant red that worked as perfect foils to Wang's diamond jewelry. The twenties feeling came up via cocktail dresses embroidered with scallops of gold thread and, in one example, embellished with a tart chartreuse ribbon. The slightly raised waistline that she used throughout the collection—even a snug navy coat had a high belt at the back—referred to a gentler, more ladylike era without ever getting sentimental or overly retro. In fact, Wang knows how to keep it modern, too: She paired a classic smoking with the most feminine tops (think pleated tulle, embroidered net) and beautifully-cut tuxedo trousers, a totally contemporary look that provided the perfect balance to her plethora of charming party dresses.